Four of the ten do most of the damage. Oxidation and staleness explain nearly every disappointing bottle. Hot alcohol and butter explain most of the rest, and skunk explains the imports.
P2.2.1 Oxidation, and why imported beer suffers from it
The slowest fault, the most common one, and the only one that is happening to every bottle you own right now.
Some oxygen gets into every beer when it is packaged. A little is dissolved in the liquid and a little sits in the gap under the cap. Breweries measure that amount in parts per billion and spend real money reducing it, because once it is in the bottle there is no getting it out.
What follows is slow chemistry. Oxygen reacts with compounds that came from the malt and produces a family of new ones called aldehydes. The best known of them smells of wet cardboard and wet paper, and your nose finds it at levels far below anything you could taste.
Oxidation has stages, and they smell different
| Stage | What you smell | What it means |
|---|
| Early | A dull edge, a slight lack of sparkle | Almost nobody notices this one, including experts |
| Middle | Wet cardboard, wet paper, damp books | Unmistakable once you know it. This is the classic |
| Late | Sherry, toffee, dried fruit, old honey | Wrong in a pale beer. Sometimes welcome in a very strong dark one |
That last row is worth sitting with. The same reaction that ruins a pale lager can improve a barleywine, because a big sweet dark beer has flavours that sit comfortably next to sherry and dried fruit. It is the same fault. The difference is the beer it happened to, and how far it went.
Covered in Module 9, Strong and specialty beersEnglish Barleywine, where sherry is welcome. A strong dark English beer built to be kept. Some oxidation over years turns into sherry and dried fruit, which is the point of ageing one. Too much still gives cardboard.
Time and warmth, and nothing else
Two dials control how fast this happens. Time is the obvious one. Temperature is the one people underestimate, because chemical reactions speed up sharply as things get warmer. A useful rule of thumb is that the rate roughly doubles for every rise of 10C, which is 18F.
Run that forward. A case of beer kept at 30C, which is 86F, is ageing something like four times as fast as the same case at 10C, which is 50F. A month in a hot warehouse can cost a beer as much as four months in a cold one. Cold storage, at 40F to 45F which is 4C to 7C, is the single cheapest thing anybody can do for beer.
Covered in Module P3, Buying, keeping and servingStoring beer at home. Cold, dark and upright, and which beers are worth keeping at all. Taught once, in Module P3.
Why imported beer suffers
Imported beer is not damaged by distance. It is damaged by everything that happens during the distance. A shipping container crossing the tropics gets hot. The beer then waits in a warehouse, then in a distributor, then on a shelf. By the time you buy it the beer may be six months old and may have spent weeks above 30C, which is 86F.
None of that requires anybody to have done anything wrong. A German lager that is superb in Munich can be tired by the time it reaches a shop in Chicago, and the brewery will never know. Importers who use refrigerated shipping exist, and it makes a difference you can taste.
Covered in Module P3, Buying, keeping and servingReading a date code. How to find the date on a can or bottle, and what the different formats mean. Taught once, in Module P3. Everything on this screen is the reason it matters.
Aroma goes before flavour does
An old beer does not smell bad first. It smells of nothing first. Aroma compounds are small, light and volatile, which is exactly what makes them reach your nose in the first place. Those same properties mean they break down early and slip out through the cap liner over months.
Bitterness and malt sweetness are made of tougher stuff and stay put. So an ageing beer follows a predictable pattern. The smell fades. The taste holds on for a while. Then cardboard arrives and joins what is left.
This is why an old hoppy beer is such a disappointment. You bought it for the grapefruit and the pine, and those are the first things to leave. What remains is bitterness with nothing on top of it, and a beer that looks completely correct in the glass.
Covered in Module 9, Strong and specialty beersFruit beers, where this bites hardest. A stale fruit beer looks right and smells of nothing, because the fruit aroma is the most fragile thing in it. Buy the newest one on the shelf.
Why a weak beer goes stale faster
Alcohol is a preservative, but it is worth being precise about what it preserves against. Alcohol makes life difficult for bacteria. It does very little to slow down the reaction with oxygen. A low alcohol beer is therefore much more vulnerable to spoiling organisms, which is why nearly all non-alcoholic beer is pasteurised or made under close to sterile conditions.
There is a second reason, and it is about proportion. A beer at 0.5% has less flavour in it to begin with than a beer at 6%. The same small amount of staling is a much bigger share of what was there. So it shows up sooner and reads as more serious.
The practical rule is the same either way. For a non-alcoholic or low strength beer, buy the newest date you can find and keep it cold. It has less margin than anything else on the shelf.
Covered in Module 11, Non-alcoholic and low alcoholNon-alcoholic beer, and its own particular fault. Raw grain and honey character, which comes from a fermentation that was stopped or never started. Common in this category and rare everywhere else.
Worked example: Two bottles on the same shelfBoth are pale ales from the same brewery, at the same price, sitting side by side in a shop. One is in a brown bottle at the back of a chiller. One is in a clear bottle in a display near the window. Which do you buy, and why?
- Light: the clear bottle is exposed and the brown one is not. Clear glass gives almost no protection, so the display bottle may already be skunked.
- Temperature: the chiller runs at roughly 40F, which is 4C. The display is at room temperature, so it is ageing several times faster.
- Time: check both date codes. If the display bottle is also older, the two effects stack.
- Style: this is a pale ale, so the aroma is the thing you are paying for, and aroma is the first thing to go.
Buy the cold brown one, every time. Nothing here required you to taste anything or to know the brewery. Light, temperature, date and style are all visible from where you are standing.
Rough shelf lives, and they are rough- Hoppy pale beer: at its best inside about three months of packaging, and noticeably faded by six.
- Ordinary lager and most everyday ales: fine for six to nine months if kept cool.
- Strong dark beer: a year and often much longer, and some improve.
- Non-alcoholic and low strength beer: the newest you can find, always.
These are habits rather than rules. Storage temperature moves every one of them.
Check yourself
- What actually causes the wet cardboard smell in an old beer?
Answer: Oxygen reacting with compounds from the malt, over time
Oxygen plus time. The reaction produces a family of compounds called aldehydes, and the best known of them is the cardboard one. Bacteria is a reasonable guess because we associate spoilage with things being alive, but a sealed oxidised beer is usually perfectly sterile. Nothing is living in it. It is just chemistry going slowly in the dark.
- Before you read on. Chemical reactions speed up as things get warmer. Roughly how many times faster does beer age at 86F, which is 30C, compared with 50F, which is 10C?
Answer: 4times faster. A common rule of thumb in chemistry is that a reaction roughly doubles in rate for every rise of 10C, which is 18F. There are two of those steps between the two temperatures here.
About four times, from two doublings. Most people guess either much lower, because a twenty degree gap does not feel dramatic, or much higher, because the phrase exponential invites big numbers. Four is enough to matter. It turns a month in a hot warehouse into the equivalent of four months in a cold one.
- Imported beer suffers mainly because of the distance it travels.
Answer: False
False, and the distinction is useful. Distance itself does nothing. What damages the beer is the time the journey takes and the temperature it reaches on the way, especially inside a shipping container. A beer flown in cold and sold in a week would be fine. A beer trucked across one country in July, badly, may not be.
- Pair each stage of oxidation with what it smells like.
Answer: Early with A dull edge, and slightly less life than it should have · Middle with Wet cardboard and damp paper · Late with Sherry, toffee and dried fruit
It runs in that order, which is why a beer can be past its best long before anybody would call it faulty. The late stage is the interesting one. Those are pleasant words, and in a very strong dark beer the result can genuinely be pleasant. In a pale lager it is the same reaction and there is nothing to enjoy about it.
- Which part of an ageing beer disappears first?
Answer: The aroma, because those compounds are the smallest and most fragile
The aroma. The compounds that reach your nose are volatile and light, which is exactly why they reach your nose, and exactly why they leave. Bitterness is much more robust and usually outlives the smell by months. Colour barely moves at all, which is part of the problem: a stale beer looks completely normal.
- Which of these beers should you buy on the newest date code you can find?
Answer: A hazy pale ale sold for its hop aroma · A non-alcoholic lager · A fruit beer sold for the smell of the fruit
The first three are all bought for aroma or have very little flavour in reserve, so they have the least margin for age. The barleywine is the exception that proves the point. It is strong, dark and sweet, and the slow changes that ruin a pale ale turn into sherry and dried fruit in a beer built to receive them.
- Fill the gap. Cold storage for beer means roughly 40F to 45F, which is about 4C to ____C.
Answer: 7
Seven. That is ordinary fridge or cellar territory rather than anything specialised. The number itself matters less than the habit: every ten degrees Celsius you take off the storage temperature roughly halves the rate at which the beer ages.
- Why does a low alcohol beer go off sooner than a strong one?
Answer: Alcohol holds bacteria back, and a weak beer also has less flavour in reserve to lose
Two things, and they are worth separating. Alcohol makes life hard for bacteria, which is why nearly all non-alcoholic beer has to be pasteurised or made under near sterile conditions. What alcohol does not do is stop oxygen. The second half of the answer is about proportion: there was less flavour there to begin with, so the same small loss shows more.
- Sort each situation by whether it damages beer quickly or slowly.
Answer: A clear bottle under a bright shop light goes in Fast damage · A shipping container crossing the tropics goes in Fast damage · A brown bottle in a cold dark cellar goes in Slow damage · A can in a fridge goes in Slow damage
Light and heat are the accelerators. A cold, dark, sealed container is the safest place beer can be, and a can in a fridge is close to ideal because it excludes light completely. The container crossing the tropics is the one people forget, because it happens long before the beer reaches anybody who cares about it.
- A beer that looks completely normal in the glass cannot be stale.
Answer: False
False, and this is the reason staleness goes unreported. Colour and clarity barely change as a beer ages, and the head can look fine. The beer that has quietly lost everything it was sold for will still photograph beautifully. Your nose is the only instrument that catches it.
P2.2.2 Hot alcohol, butter and skunk
Three faults worth knowing properly, including the one that is a fault and the one that is just a strong beer doing its job.
Hot alcohol, and how it differs from warmth
A strong beer is supposed to warm you. That warmth comes from ordinary alcohol, it arrives after you swallow, and it spreads gently through the chest. It builds over a glass rather than hitting you in the first sip. Nobody should apologise for it and it is not a fault.
Hot alcohol is a different thing wearing a similar name. Yeast working too fast or too warm makes heavier alcohols alongside the ordinary one, and those taste of solvent. Alongside them sits a compound that smells of nail varnish and pear drops. The result burns rather than warms.
| Question to ask | Warmth | Hot alcohol |
|---|
| Can you smell it before you sip? | No. Warmth has no smell | Yes. Solvent, nail varnish, paint |
| When do you feel it? | After you swallow, spreading | While the beer is still in your mouth, at the back of the throat |
| What does it do as the glass warms up? | Stays about the same | Gets sharper and more obvious |
| Where does it turn up? | Any strong beer, correctly made | Beers fermented hot or fast, and a lot of home brew |
The smell test is the fast one. Warmth is silent, and solvent is not.
The cause is a brewing decision rather than an ingredient. Fermentation makes its own heat, and a strong beer makes a lot of it. Let the temperature climb and the yeast produces more of the heavy alcohols. Give it a cool room and enough yeast for the amount of sugar, and it does not.
A well made strong ale will warm your chest and give you nothing that smells of a hardware shop. If you are getting solvent, that is not the strength. That is the fermentation.
Covered in Module 5, Amber, brown and mild alesWee Heavy, a style built on warmth. Strong, malty and Scottish, and warmth is part of what you are buying. A solvent smell in one is still wrong.
Butter, and why it turns up on every tap
Diacetyl is made by the yeast itself, as a side effect of building the proteins it needs. It leaks out of the cell and turns into the buttery compound on its own. Healthy yeast then takes it back in and turns it into something you cannot taste, given a few days somewhere warm enough to work.
That is the whole story of the fault. Brewers who allow those days get clean beer. Brewers who need the tank back do not. It shows in the mouth as well as the nose, as a slick or slippery film on the tongue.
The second source is not the brewery at all. Bacteria living in dirty draught lines produce the same compound, and they produce it in whatever beer passes through. That is why a buttery note on every tap in the building points at the plumbing rather than at any brewery.
Sensitivity varies enormously between people. The commonly quoted level at which most tasters find it is around a tenth of a milligram in a litre, and some people pick it up well below that. So one person at a table can be certain the beer is buttery while another genuinely cannot find it. Both can be telling the truth.
Two styles that allow a little of itThis is one of the few faults with official exceptions written into the style guidelines.
- Czech Premium Pale Lager: the 2021 BJCP guidelines call light to moderately low levels acceptable, though not required.
- Sweet Stout: the same guidelines list low diacetyl as optional.
- German Pils, American IPA and most modern styles: none is acceptable at any level.
So butter in a Czech lager is a judgement call about proportion. Butter in a German Pils is simply wrong.
Skunk, and what actually causes it
Every beer contains riboflavin, which is vitamin B2, and it comes in with the malt. Riboflavin absorbs light in the blue part of the spectrum, around 450 nanometres, and passes that energy on to the bitter compounds that came from the hops.
One of those bitter compounds breaks apart under that energy. A fragment of it picks up a sulphur atom from elsewhere in the beer, and the result is a compound called 3-methyl-2-butene-1-thiol. Chemists shorten that to MBT. It is close kin to what a skunk sprays, which is why the description is so consistent.
Two things follow from that mechanism, and both correct things people commonly say. First, the light doing the damage is ordinary visible blue light and not only ultraviolet, so blocking ultraviolet alone is not enough. Second, none of this needs heat, age or shaking. It needs photons.
| Container | Protection | What to expect |
|---|
| Can or keg | Complete | No light gets in, so this fault cannot happen |
| Brown glass | Good | Blocks most of the wavelengths that matter. Not perfect over months in a bright shop |
| Green glass | Poor | Blocks some. A green bottled import that has sat in the light is the classic case |
| Clear glass | Almost none | Assume it has happened, unless the brewery took the step below |
There is one honest exception. Some breweries use modified hop extracts that cannot form MBT at all, and those beers can sit in clear glass indefinitely without skunking. So a clear bottle is a warning rather than a verdict.
Sources disagreeHow quickly beer becomes skunked in the light.
- Popular beer writing. Seconds, or a couple of minutes, in direct sunlight through clear glass.
- Craft Beer and Brewing, reporting BJCP exam preparation guidance. To produce a skunked sample to practise on, leave a commercial beer in a green bottle in sunlight for one to three days.
- Kvasny Prumysl 2022, on beer photodegradation. The reaction begins as soon as light of the right wavelength reaches the beer. How much builds up depends on the intensity of the light, the colour of the glass and the time.
These are not really in conflict, because each one is describing a different amount of light. Treat it as a sliding scale rather than a stopwatch. Strong sun through clear glass is fast. Green glass takes longer and still gets there. Brown glass is reasonably safe for the life of the beer, and a can cannot skunk at all. The shopping rule does not change: if the glass is clear or green and the shop is bright, expect it.
Skunky does not mean the beer got warmThis is the most common wrong explanation in beer, and it survives because both things happen to badly kept beer at the same time. Heat and light usually travel together, in a delivery van or a shop window.
They do different damage. Heat gives you cardboard. Light gives you skunk. A beer can have one, the other, or both, and telling them apart tells you what went wrong and where.
Sources: BJCP Beer Faults reference · BJCP 2021 Style Guidelines, 3B Czech Premium Pale Lager · BJCP 2021 Style Guidelines, 16A Sweet Stout · Kvasny Prumysl 2022, Direct detection of beer photodegradation in commercial bottles · Craft Beer and Brewing, Off Flavor of the Week: Lightstruck
Check yourself
- A pleasant warming feeling in the chest after swallowing a strong beer is a mild version of the hot alcohol fault.
Answer: False
False. They come from different compounds and behave differently. Warmth comes from ordinary alcohol, arrives after the swallow and has no smell. The fault comes from heavier alcohols made during a hot fermentation, and it announces itself as solvent before you have even sipped. A strong beer that warms you is doing exactly what it is for.
- Which single question separates warmth from hot alcohol fastest?
Answer: Can you smell solvent or nail varnish before you sip?
The smell. Warmth is completely silent to the nose, so any solvent or nail varnish note settles it before you drink anything. Strength is the tempting answer, because strong beers are where the fault turns up most, but plenty of strong beers are made cleanly and plenty of ordinary ones are not.
- Sort each observation by what it points at.
Answer: Only this one beer tastes buttery goes in The brewery made it · A solvent smell on a strong ale from a fresh bottle goes in The brewery made it · Every tap in the room has the same buttery note goes in The bar made it · The lager and the stout both taste faintly sour goes in The bar made it
Anything shared across beers from different breweries has to come from something those beers share, and in a bar that means the lines and the glassware. Anything confined to one product came with the product. The buttery note appears in both lists because it has two entirely separate sources, which is what makes it the most useful diagnostic fault in the ten.
- Which vitamin, present in every beer, starts the reaction that makes a beer skunky?
Answer: riboflavin
Riboflavin, also called vitamin B2, which arrives with the malt. It absorbs blue light and hands the energy to the bitter compounds from the hops, and one of those then falls apart. It is a strange fact that a nutrient is the trigger, which is exactly why it is worth remembering.
- A friend says their beer is skunky because the shop kept it too warm. What is the accurate correction?
Answer: Warmth gives cardboard. Skunk comes from light, and the two damage beer separately
Skunking is driven by light, so it can happen to a cold beer and cannot happen inside a can. Warmth does real damage, and the damage it does smells of wet cardboard. The reason the wrong version is so persistent is that heat and light usually turn up together, in a van or a shop window, so the same badly kept beer often has both faults.
- Pair each container with how much protection it gives against skunking.
Answer: Can or keg with Complete. No light gets in at all · Brown glass with Good. Blocks most of the wavelengths that matter · Green glass with Poor. Blocks some, and the classic imports come in it · Clear glass with Almost none. Assume it happened
The ranking follows how much short wavelength light each one lets through. Green glass is the interesting case: it looks protective and is much weaker than brown. The one caveat is that some breweries use hop extracts that cannot skunk, so a clear bottle is a warning rather than a verdict.
- A trace of butter in a Czech lager is automatically a fault.
Answer: False
False, and this is one of the few faults with an official exception. The 2021 BJCP guidelines call light to moderately low diacetyl acceptable in Czech Premium Pale Lager, and low levels optional in Sweet Stout. That makes it a judgement about proportion rather than presence. In a German Pils the same note is simply wrong.
- Which of these point at hot alcohol rather than ordinary warmth?
Answer: A smell of nail varnish before you sip · A sharp burn at the back of the throat while the beer is in your mouth · It gets more obvious as the glass warms up
The first three. Solvent smell, burn during rather than after, and getting worse in a warming glass. The fourth is what a well made strong beer is meant to do. The reason this matters is that people write off good strong beers as harsh when the warmth is exactly what they paid for.
- Every beer on the bar has a faint buttery note. What is the useful thing to say?
Answer: There is a buttery note on everything I have tried tonight. When were the lines last cleaned?
Naming what you smell and asking about the lines gives the bar somewhere useful to go. Asking for a different beer will not help, because the next one comes down the same plumbing. Saying nothing is the common choice and it is why the problem persists. Line cleaning is routine maintenance, and staff who care will not be offended by the question.
- Put the skunking reaction in order.
Answer: 1. Light in the blue part of the spectrum passes through the glass 2. Riboflavin absorbs that light and takes on the energy 3. The energy passes to a bitter compound from the hops, which breaks apart 4. A fragment picks up a sulphur atom and becomes the skunk compound
Light, then the vitamin, then the hop compound, then the sulphur. Knowing the chain is useful because each step tells you a way to stop it. Block the light with brown glass or a can. Take out the hop compound by using a modified extract. Those are exactly the two things breweries actually do.