P4.1.1 Water, grain and weather
Three things a brewer four hundred years ago could not change, and what each one did to the beer.
A beer style is rarely an invention. It is usually the beer that worked in one place, repeated until it had a name. Three local facts decided what worked: the water, the grain that grew nearby, and how cold a cellar could be kept.
Water
What water does to beer. Around nine tenths of the glass is water. Sulfate sharpens bitterness and dries the finish. Chloride does the opposite and makes the malt feel rounder. Taught once, in Module F1.
There are two separate things people mean by hard water, and beer cares about both of them differently.
- Sulfate is the mineral in gypsum. It sharpens the edge of hop bitterness and dries the finish. High sulfate suits a bitter pale beer.
- Carbonate is the stuff that furs up a kettle. It is alkaline, and a mash needs to be slightly acidic to work properly. Dark roasted grain is acidic, so it pulls an alkaline mash back into range.
That second point is the whole geography of dark beer. Carbonate water and roasted grain fix each other. Carbonate water and pale malt do not, and a pale beer brewed in it comes out harsh.
| Where | What the water is like | What it made easy |
|---|---|---|
| Burton upon Trent | Very high in sulfate | Pale ale with a firm dry bitterness. Brewers everywhere still add sulfate salts to copy it, and the trade calls it Burtonisation. |
| Plzen | Among the softest water in Europe, with very little dissolved in it at all | Pale lager hopped hard. A heavy hop rate lands round rather than sharp, which is why a Czech lager reads gentler than its bitterness figure. |
| Munich | Low in the minerals that sharpen bitterness, high in carbonate | Dark lager first. Pale Munich beer arrived much later, and the low hop rate of a Helles is the local water showing. |
| Dublin and London | High in carbonate | Dark beer. Roasted grain answers the alkalinity, which is why porter and stout settled in both cities. |
| Dortmund | High in sulfate and carbonate together | Exportbier, sitting between a Pils and a Helles: more body than the first, drier and more bitter than the second. |
| Goslar | Salty, from minerals washed off the Harz hills | Gose. The beer was salty because the water was, and salt is now written into the recipe. |
Dublin water made stout, and Burton water made pale ale.
- The version you usually hear. The minerals in the water put the roast into stout and the bite into pale ale. The beer tastes of its water supply.
- Brewing chemistry. Sulfate genuinely does sharpen bitterness, so the Burton half holds up. Carbonate adds no flavour of its own. It makes pale beer difficult and dark beer straightforward, which is a different claim.
- Brewing practice today. Any brewery can add or strip minerals and build the water it wants. Burton salts are sold by the sack.
Half true, and the half that is wrong matters. Water decided what was easy to brew well in each city, not what the beer tasted of. Nobody involved knew any of this at the time either. The chemistry arrived in the nineteenth century, long after the styles did, so the causation ran through generations of trial and error rather than through a plan.
Grain
| Where | What grew | What got brewed |
|---|---|---|
| England and Bohemia | Good barley, and plenty of it | Bitter, porter and pale lager. Barley is the default across the whole map. |
| Bavaria and Belgium | Wheat alongside the barley | Hefeweizen in Bavaria, Witbier in Belgium. Two wheat beers, two completely different flavours. |
| Grodzisk, in Poland | Wheat, and oak to fire the kiln | Grodziskie, made entirely from oak smoked wheat malt. |
| The American Midwest | Six row barley, plus corn and rice | American Lager. The local barley behaved differently, and corn and rice solved the problem. |
| Finland | Rye, and juniper growing in the forest | Sahti, filtered through juniper branches instead of a filter bed. |
| Wallonia | Whatever the farm grew that year | Saison, brewed on the farm in winter for the people working it in summer. |
Weather
Before refrigeration, temperature was the constraint that decided everything else. A brewer could choose a recipe. Nobody could choose the weather.
- Bavaria had cold caves and lake ice. Beer could be held near freezing for months, which is where cold fermenting yeast was selected and why lager exists at all.
- A Bavarian decree of 1553 allowed brewing only between 29 September and 23 April. Summer brewing spoiled reliably and burned buildings down. The last batch of the season was brewed in March, made strong, and stored through the summer. That is Marzen.
- The Zenne valley outside Brussels brews from about October to April. Lambic is cooled overnight in an open pan and left to catch its own organisms. Summer air carries too many of the wrong ones.
- Gold Rush California had no ice at all. Brewers ran lager yeast at ale temperatures because there was no other option, and California Common is the result.
A brewery in Ohio can build Burton water, buy Bohemian malt and hold a tank at 48F, which is 9C. Every constraint on this screen has been solved by equipment.
So the map explains where a style came from. It does not say where the beer can be made well now, and it is not a ranking. The one real exception is at the bottom of the next screen.
Check yourself
- Before you read on. Roughly what share of a glass of beer is water?Answer: 92%. A 5% beer is 5% alcohol. Everything else is water plus a small amount of dissolved grain, hop and yeast material.Around 90% to 95%. Once you have that number in your head, the idea that the local water supply changed the local beer stops sounding like folklore and starts sounding obvious. It is the biggest ingredient by a very long way, and it is the only one that arrived out of the ground.
- Why did dark beer settle in cities with high carbonate water?Answer: Carbonate is alkaline and roasted grain is acidic, so the two cancel each other outThe two problems solve each other. A mash needs to be slightly acidic, alkaline water pushes it the wrong way, and dark roasted grain pushes it back. The flavour answer is the tempting one because it makes a neater story, and it is wrong. Carbonate contributes no flavour. It contributes difficulty, and roasted malt removes it.
- Sort each city by the water it sits on.Answer: Burton upon Trent goes in High in sulfate · Dortmund goes in High in sulfate · Plzen goes in Very soft, almost nothing dissolved · Dublin goes in High in carbonate · Munich goes in High in carbonate · London goes in High in carbonateSulfate cities made bitter pale beer, the soft water city made a hard hopped lager that tastes gentle, and the carbonate cities made dark beer. Dortmund is the one that catches people, because it is high in both and its Exportbier sits between a Pils and a Helles for exactly that reason.
- The brewers who created these styles chose their recipes to suit the local water chemistry.Answer: FalseFalse, and it is the most common way this story gets told wrong. The chemistry was not understood until the nineteenth century, and mash acidity later still. What happened was slower and less clever: some beers came out well in that town and some did not, so the ones that worked got brewed again. The explanation arrived centuries after the beer.
- Pair each place with what grew there and what got brewed.Answer: Grodzisk, in Poland with Wheat and oak, so a beer of oak smoked wheat malt · Finland with Juniper in the forest, used in place of a filter bed · The American Midwest with Six row barley with corn and rice alongside it · Wallonia with Whatever the farm grew, brewed in winter for the summer workersEach of these four is a beer built out of what was to hand rather than what would have been ideal. The Midwest one is worth holding on to, because corn and rice in American lager get treated as a modern cost saving, and they started as a solution to how the local barley behaved.
- What does adding sulfate to brewing water actually do?Answer: It sharpens the edge of the bitterness and dries the finishIt changes how the bitterness reads rather than how much of it is there. No bitter compounds are added, so the laboratory figure does not move. The third option describes chloride, which is the mineral that goes the other way, and brewers use the balance between the two to aim a beer at sharp or at soft.
- Adding sulfate salts to brewing water to copy one English town has a name. What is it?Answer: burtonisationBurtonisation, after Burton upon Trent. It is worth knowing because it is the clearest proof that the geography no longer binds anybody. A brewer in any country can buy the salts and build the water, which is why good bitter is made all over the world.
- Which of these are genuine reasons that cold weather shaped Bavarian brewing?Answer: Cold caves and lake ice let beer be stored near freezing for months · A 1553 decree allowed brewing only between 29 September and 23 April · Cold fermenting yeast was selected because it worked in those conditionsStorage, the law and the yeast are all real and connected. The fourth is invented. Kiln colour is set by how hot and how long the maltster runs the kiln, and the weather outside has nothing to do with it. The 1553 rule is the one worth carrying, because it is where March beer and Oktoberfest both come from.
- Two pale lagers, one from Plzen and one from Dortmund. Which description fits the Dortmund one?Answer: Firmer and drier, because the water is high in sulfate as well as carbonateDortmund water is mineral rich and the beer finishes firm and dry, which is why an Exportbier sits between a German Pils and a Munich Helles. The second option describes Plzen exactly, which is what makes it tempting. Very soft water is why a Czech lager can carry 30 to 45 IBU and still taste gentle.
- Lambic is brewed only between about October and April.Answer: TrueTrue. The hot liquid is run into a wide open pan and left overnight to cool and to catch its own organisms. Summer air carries too many of the wrong ones, so the season closes. It is the one production method in this course that is still tied to a time of year, and the reason is weather rather than tradition.